History of Odisha Applique Work
Odisha appliqué work, locally known as Chandua, originated in the 12th century in Pipli village, Puri district. Rooted in temple traditions, it draws inspiration from the grand rituals of the Jagannath Temple. Initially used during deity processions, the craft has evolved to include wall hangings, bed sheets, lamp shades, umbrellas, and bags that are popular with tourists and locals alike. Today, Pipli remains the hub of the craft, but it has spread to villages such as Kanasa, Kadua, Kanas, Satyabadi, Delanga, Nimapara, and areas of Khurda district. Design interventions have helped diversify the product line to suit modern tastes.
Applique art is traditionally done on fabrics in red, black, yellow, green, white, and purple. Craftspeople prepare base shapes like squares, circles, or ovals. Over these, decorative motifs are sewn using hand stitching, mirror work, and embroidery. Patterns are cut from colored fabric and sewn to create symbolic shapes. Further embellishments like mirror work and hand embroidery add texture and depth. Sometimes, techniques like kasuti and berhampuri patta embroidery are also used to enhance the visual appeal.
Main Applique Items:
- Chandua (Canopy): Decorative textile used in temples.
- Chhati (Ritual Umbrella): Used in deity processions.
- Alata or Binchana (Hand Fan): Circular ceremonial fan.
- Lampshade: Used as a decorative souvenir, especially during Ratha Yatra.
Haven Crafts, a social enterprise led by Rakhi Jain, committed to artisan empowerment and sustainable craft revival, has conducted field-level assessments and community engagements across Appliqué craft clusters in Pipili and surrounding villages of Odisha. Through close interaction with artisans—particularly women from Self-Help Groups (SHGs) who form the backbone of this traditional art form—we have identified key challenges affecting the growth, livelihood potential, and long-term sustainability of the appliqué sector.
This report outlines the core problems identified and the strategic solutions Haven Crafts is actively working to implement in partnership with artisans, design institutions, market stakeholders, and government bodies.
Challenges Identified and Initiative Started by Haven Crafts
1. Loss of Authenticity Due to Machine Stitching
Challenge:
Traditional hand-stitched appliqué work is increasingly replaced by machine-made products, compromising the craft’s heritage and artistic value.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
- Promoting “Handcrafted with Pride” labeling and artisan certification.
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Organizing awareness campaigns about the uniqueness of handmade work.
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Collaborating with artisans to document and archive traditional motifs.
2. Low Wages & Migration of Women Artisans
Challenge:
Women, the backbone of this craft, work long hours for meager wages. Many are forced to leave the craft in search of better income.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
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Formation of women-led Self Help Groups (SHGs) for collective bargaining.
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Linking artisans with minimum support prices, government schemes, and fair trade certification.
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Conducting training programs for product diversification to increase income potential.
3. Scarcity and High Cost of Raw Materials
Challenge:
Raw fabric has to be procured from Surat and Kolkata, increasing production cost. The existing raw material bank in Pipli is limited in variety and affordability.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
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Partnering with the government to enhance the raw material bank.
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Encouraging local sourcing of fabrics and bulk procurement for SHGs.
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Creating cluster-based raw material depots managed by artisans.
4. Decline in Tourism Footfall Due to Road Bypass
Challenge:
The 2015 construction of a bypass road diverted tourist traffic away from Pipli, reducing direct sales and local shop visits.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
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Promoting Pipli as a craft tourism hub through digital marketing and cultural tours.
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Partnering with OTDC and travel agencies to include Pipli in heritage circuits.
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Designing flex banners, roadside signage, and highway craft stalls to redirect attention.
5. Shift in Artisan Livelihoods & Disguised Unemployment
Challenge:
Due to seasonal demand and low income, artisans are moving to carpentry, agriculture, or masonry. Many work in handicrafts only part-time.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
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Creating steady orders through bulk export buyers and online platforms.
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Promoting hybrid livelihood models (farming + craft) with year-round engagement.
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Facilitating artisan welfare schemes and micro-insurance programs.
6. Poor Market Linkage and Limited Direct Exports
Challenge:
Despite international demand, most exports are routed indirectly. Exporters avoid appliqué due to manual complexity and high rejection risks.
Haven Crafts’ Initiatives:
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Setting up export-ready artisan units and quality control systems.
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Training artisans in export packaging, documentation, and pricing.
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Targeting diaspora markets with customized festival collections and global exhibitions.
Conclusion
Odisha’s applique is more than a decorative craft—it is a reflection of cultural heritage and community strength. With strong government support, innovation, and market integration, this iconic art form can see a sustainable and prosperous future—especially for the women artisans who preserve its legacy.